Archive for September, 2009

Lighthouse Reef

September 10th, 2009

When visiting Belize and looking for new spots to see and snorkel three of my local Caye Caulker friends made it happen for me this time by taking me to Lighthouse Reef. Rafael, Fiona, Patrick and i spent 4 amazing days out on Northern Caye on Lighthouse Reef and snorkeled to our hearts’ content.

Small Caye with the Lighthouse after which the Reef was named.

Small Caye with the Lighthouse after which the Reef was named.

This trip was all about back to the roots for me. We only packed bare necesseties when it comes to food, since we wanted to do as much speerfishing, flyfishing and trolling as possible. Other than that, the most valuable item was my bikini!

When we arrived at Lighthouse Reef the island’s caretaker greeted us happily and invited us to stay in the room’s that had formerly been Staff Quarters. Simple but clean and the bathrooms right next to it. We were delighted at so much comfort as we had anticipated camping out and sleeping under the stars. Mr.Jones, the caretaker, soon quenched that thirst for “outdoor sleeping” when he let us know there are crocodiles on the island as well as gazillion of mosquitoes!!!

As soon as the boat was unloaded we set out to go speerfishing, a little bit of a contest between the two pairs Rafael and Fiona and Patrick and i. We caught two hogfish each and a yellowjack. Shortly before sunset we started cooking and soon after lit a huge bonfire on the beach to chase away the mosquitoes.

We started the next day with an early breakfast and then explored the island for a bit. When talking to Mr. Jones i found out that the resort has been closed and for sale for 4 years now. It has an airstrip where people used to fly in directly to Northern Caye. There are three big houses that sleep up to 6 people, while the 5 smaller cabanas sleep up to 4 people. I was amazed how someone could close a beautiful resort like this one. Everything looked as if someone just hit “pause” not like having been closed for years.

two Juvenile Queen Angelfish i was able to find at the dock on Lighthouse Reef.

two Juvenile Queen Angelfish i was able to find at the dock on Lighthouse Reef.

As i mentioned before, it is my lil paradise found. The island is surrounded by corral reef which enables you to snorkel right off the beach, the ocean is inviting you to dip in for a swim at any time and the water is home to as many game fish as well as reef fish.

I found out that the dock at the former restaurant has another function now: it is the island’s nursery for reef fish babies of all sorts. I saw juvenile Angel Fish, juvenile Rock Beauty, Seargent Majors, Black Snappers, grunts, Dogteeth, Butterfly Fish and Lobsters as well as the occassional baby Stingray very close to shore.

Later this day we took the boat over to Small Caye (the island where the actual lighthouse is) and spent the afternoon sunbathing, relaxing, playing around in the shallow waters on the shore and of course, fishing.

Rafael holding his catch, a tarpon, before releasing it back into the ocean.

Rafael holding his catch, a tarpon, before releasing it back into the ocean.

Rafael was able to catch a tarpon. These fish are protected in Belize and fishing for them is catch and release only. It took him a good hour to get the huge fish in and we could not resist to pose for a picture with the gorgeous animal.

We then went for a bit of snorkeling and speerfishing since our dinner was not caught yet and we were all getting a wee bit hungry. Snacking on coconuts all day may sound great but it is not going to fill one’s stomach for long. The day ended with Hogfish for dinner and a great bonfire (mainly to chase the mosquitoes away).

Before i tell you that on the last day we did exactly what we had done the prior days, i would like to point out how much wildlife there was on these remote Cayes. We actually saw a blue heron, a greenback heron, pelicans, crabs, lizards, turtles, crocodiles, nursesharks, stingrays, eaglerays and many many colorful reef fish!

For all of you who would like to experience something like this trip to Lighthouse Reef i would advise to talk to Rafael from Raggamuffin Tours and he may be able to hook you up with what you want. But beware, the trip is expensive as gas prices have skyrocketed and you will need to bring pretty mcuh everything to the island, from ice for the coolers to bugspray for yourself. Other than that is a great trip to relax, snorkel, speerfish and enjoy island life for a few days.

Five Sisters Falls

September 5th, 2009

On my second day in Cayo district Patrick and i decided to check out Five Sisters Falls and the Lodge under the same name right above it in the mountains. Five Sisters is one of the many waterfalls in the Mountain Pineridge area.

This is the "better" of the two roads to Five Sisters but "better" does not mean it is a smooth ride up there ;)

This is the "better" of the two roads to Five Sisters but "better" does not mean it is a smooth ride up there ;)

We had to get a ride up the mountains in a pickup truck and that itself was quite the adventure because there are two roads leading up there and both are rocky and bumpy. We took the better one from Santa Elena leading up past Cristo Rey and San Antonio, two cute little villages amidst jungle, trees and a few farms here and there.

The ride to Five Sisters Lodge took us a lil more than an hr from Santa Elena and we shared one or the other moment of “wow” on the way marveling at the lush vegetation and hoping other drivers would get back on their side of the road. Since the road is so bumpy whenever there is no other trafic you use whatever side is best. But beware, just around the next corner there could be a big truck coming up the hill or a smaller and faster SUV that needs the space in their lane.

Once we arrived at Five Sisters Lodge we were greeted by Xavier, the manager of the property who toured us around on the Lodge’s grounds and showed us where to find what. When we arrived at the Restaurant we started to hear the gushing water. When we stepped out onto the sundeck we took in a scenery that is very hard to match.

beautiful Five Sisters Falls

beautiful Five Sisters Falls

To our left, we saw pine forest mountains. Looking to the right, we saw the broad leaf folliage of the jungle and down below us were the waterfalls that gave the eco-friendly lodge it’s name: Five Sisters, due to it being five waterstreams falling down over the rocks.

The Lodge features cabanas and a river villa and the guests can choose between “mountain view” or “waterfall view”. Our sweet little cabana had the name “Roaring Creek”, and rightly so i would say. From it’s patio we had a great view down to the waterfalls, as well as the surrounding pine forest.

Soon after settling in it was time to have dinner and our waiter Dan greeted us with a perfectly set, beautifully decorated and candle lit table on the separate deck outside next to the restaurant. Since this is a very silent and remote location i decided to spend the rest of the evening enjoying the quiet and reading for a bit but soon enough the constant calming sound of the waterfall had lulled me to sleep.

The next morning started with a hearty belizean breakfast of scrambled eggs with tomatoes, refried beans and fry jacks, some fruits and goooooood belizean grown coffee served outside on the deck again. Temperatures were still moderate so we decided after breakfast it is time to walk down the 300 steps to the falls.

sitting at Five Sisters Falls

sitting at Five Sisters Falls

And it was well worth it. The Lodge has a lil area set up by the waterfalls were you can lounge in a hammock and listen to the streaming falls, the birds calling in the trees and the occassional woodpecker. The lady who cooked our breakfast told us that there is a jaguar who comes down to where the private villa is by the river but we were not lucky enough to spot it there.

After i had made Patrick walk up the 300 steps with me back to the restaurant i changed my mind and we walked back down half way to go on the nature trail which leads around Five Sisters Lodge through the jungle. You start out amidst pine trees and the trail leads you alongside the stream that forms Five Sister Falls and as it continues you can see the vegetation change to broad leaf jungle with all the Mayan medicinal plants marked alongside the way.

As i was about to give up on ever seeing a jaguar in the wild it crossed our path! Just like that. It was a good distance away and i didn’t dare to move in order not to scare it away which is why i couldn’t get a picture of it. The jaguar did take notice of us, looked our way and then continued his way back into the jungle. It was one of the most magical moments.

yummy bugs! lizard and his breakfast at Five Sisters Lodge

yummy bugs! lizard and his breakfast at Five Sisters Lodge

As we continued the trail we spotted several other animals including the Lodge’s local coatimundi “Buddy” and a few spinytail lizards catching grashoppers (huge grasshoppers!). After the 45 minute walk we were soaked in sweat but happy when we arrived back at the entrance area to Five Sister’s Lodge.

My HOT tip, when you walk the nature trail and come to the stream, cross over and keep walking until you reach the secluded waterfall. It is called “Skinny Dipping Falls”, wanna guess why? :)

One piece of advice: DO NOT forget to come “armed” with bugspray. We were moskito food despite bugspray but it makes it a lil more bearable. Also, the sandflies were out in the afternoon and you might be more comfortable wearing longsleeves and pants. Nevertheless, the trip to Five Sisters Falls was one of a kind and if you are in Belize it is a MUST SEE!

Life with a Belizean Family

September 4th, 2009

The last 4 days i decided to give beach life on the island Caye Caulker a break and went to Cayo district in Western Belize. The trip on the bus was easy as could be and buses travel frequently in either direction. You pay 5BZE (2.5USD) for the bus ride and it takes you about 2 hrs to get from Belize City to San Ignacio.

This time we (my friend Patrick and i)  stopped about halfway between Belmopan and San Ignacio in Ontario Village to visit his family and spend some time with them. I knew before that Belizeans in general are very friendly people but i had not anticipated what i experienced the next four days.

When we got off the bus in front of the house (yes, you can get off anywhere, just holler and tell the driver to stop) we were greeted by three of Patrick’s cousins, his aunt and uncle. Joe and Marjorie Middleton greeted me like an old friend with big hugs and hellos although i had never met them before.

My first tries at making fresh tortillas

My first tries at making fresh tortillas

We spent the rest of the day meeting many cousins, aunts and uncles and got the impression this family must consist of about 100 people and that is only the maternal side. In the evening aunt Marjorie taught me how to make tortillas on a comal and we enjoyed a tasty dinner of chicken, home made flour tortillas and avocado.

Afterwards i settled into a comfortable bed in the nice little house and was soon after in a deep deep sleep.

The next day Patrick and i set out to go to San Ignacio. On the way we stopped to visit his Mom and Stepfather. It was very nice but brief since we had a lot on our agenda still. We had our mind set to go to Five Sister Falls and spend the night at Five Sisters Lodge (this trip i will feature in a separate blog post).

We spend the third day in San Ignacio itself and went to see Patrick’s 97 yearold grandmother! This old lady was amazing! Although she said age is finally getting the best of her and she doesn’t hear and see

Patrick's 97 yo grandmother and i

Patrick's 97 yo grandmother and i

good anymore she was sitting on the porch pointing out birds in the trees to me and i had to smirk about that! It was a lovely time visiting with her and hearing her tell about how Cayo and San Ignacio have changed so much over the last few years.

At the end of the day we went back to Ontario Village and prepared dinner with aunt Marjorie, her 4 children, her husband and 2 grandchildren. I am still flabbergasted how such a small house can fit 10 people without feeling overly full. There was so much love and warmth in this home and i have NEVER in my life felt so welcome as a stranger ever before. It was instantly like i belonged to the family.

Of course the goodbyes in the morning were not easy. Especially the boys (age 8-10) had a lot of fun goofing around with Patrick, playing soccer with me and dancing funny dances to all kinds of music. I was impressed when 9yo Ivan showed me how to dance Punta!

But afterall our time in Cayo was coming to an end. We hugged everybody goodbye in the morning and stepped out to the roadside. We flagged down a bus going towards Belmopan/Belize City and started making our way back to Caye Caulker.

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