Archive for the ‘Cayo District’ category

Wolf’s Place in Cayo District

April 22nd, 2010

On my last trip to Belize I took some time away from island life on Caye Caulker and went to travel in the jungle for a few days. The area I visited is called Cayo district. While staying in Ontario village with my friend Patrick’s family we walked to the next village. In the village of Blackman Eddy I had visited a German couple who is running a Lodge on my first trip to Belize. Due to leaving Cayo the same day it was a brief visit with a couple of minutes of talking to Peter and the promise to drop by whenever I am back in the area.

In hopes of this time having more time to talk to my fellow Germans Patrick and I set out on foot to get to Wolf’s Place.

This is Peter Wolf's Burger Restaurant, the best there is in Belize!

Coming around the first bend in the road in Blackman Eddy we spotted McWolf’s on the lefthand side.

Situated on a green hillside lot is not only the cute lil Restaurant serving up the best burgers in all of Belize, there is also Peter and Petra Wolf’s Lodge and Cabanas, the original Wolf’s Place itself!

On the grounds you find Peter and Petra Wolf’s house and 3 (soon to be 4) Thatch Cabanas, a barbeque area, outdoor shower and a Palapa Hammock area to relax under.Peter and Petra not only host tourists on their property, they also offer tours that range from tubing and cave exploring, to snorkeling, to diving to jungle and river tours. They have been in Belize for almost 6 years now and Wolf’s Place has by now established a fabulous reputation among travelers and locals likewise.

When Patrick and I arrived at the main gate we were greeted by three large dogs who barked up a frenzy but otherwise seemed nice. I guess they were just guarding their territory.

Once the dogs started barking, Peter looked out of the window in the main house and hollered he’d be right down. He remembered me from my former brief visit and invited us in to have a look at Wolf’s Place. While walking around the property he told me of his plans for the future. There will be a new road built from Spanish Lookout to Orange Walk which would take away most of the traffic that is now still running by Wolf’s Place.

Peter and Petra Wolf's Main House at Wolf's Place

In spring 2010 Peter is planning to build the third cabana on his property and wants to equip it with a kitchenette and a bathroom.

In the long run, once the road from Spanish Lookout to Orange Walk is built he is planning to further expand Wolf’s Place as there is no shortage in bookings for him. “In all honesty”, Peter tells me, “I am booked well into the year of 2010 and coming to an end with my capacity to host visitors. It is the only logical thing to expand.”

Despite the ambitious plans I have no doubt that Wolf’s Place will not lose it’s charme and comfort, being a family owned and run business who does not cater to mass tourism but small individual travel groups seeking an experience off the beaten path.

This is one of the cabanas at Wolf's Place

I cannot find enough words of praise for the Wolfs as they have made me incredibly comfortable while I spent time with them. Peter had me taste his fantastic wine (secret receipe) and had me guessing what it is made of. It tastes like a semi sweet white wine. If you visit Peter, you HAVE to taste it!

Patrick and I spent the whole afternoon with Peter on the patio drinking his wine, eating sugar cane and talking about anything and everything. He showed me the new german guidebook on Belize he is publishing as well as let me play with his 3 dogs who are all very friendly despite all the barking at the gate.I promise you will feel instantly at home with Peter and Petra Wolf!  They are the best! :)

All of you who would like more information about Wolf’s Place, go to: www.belize24.de   This is Peter Wolf’s Website where you can learn more about the tours he offers, accommodations and the history of Wolf’s Place.

If you’re in the area stop by McWolf’s for a hearty burger or say Hello to the Wolf Family! The visit with them is one of my most cherished memories from my travels in Belize!

Five Sisters Falls

September 5th, 2009

On my second day in Cayo district Patrick and i decided to check out Five Sisters Falls and the Lodge under the same name right above it in the mountains. Five Sisters is one of the many waterfalls in the Mountain Pineridge area.

This is the "better" of the two roads to Five Sisters but "better" does not mean it is a smooth ride up there ;)

This is the "better" of the two roads to Five Sisters but "better" does not mean it is a smooth ride up there ;)

We had to get a ride up the mountains in a pickup truck and that itself was quite the adventure because there are two roads leading up there and both are rocky and bumpy. We took the better one from Santa Elena leading up past Cristo Rey and San Antonio, two cute little villages amidst jungle, trees and a few farms here and there.

The ride to Five Sisters Lodge took us a lil more than an hr from Santa Elena and we shared one or the other moment of “wow” on the way marveling at the lush vegetation and hoping other drivers would get back on their side of the road. Since the road is so bumpy whenever there is no other trafic you use whatever side is best. But beware, just around the next corner there could be a big truck coming up the hill or a smaller and faster SUV that needs the space in their lane.

Once we arrived at Five Sisters Lodge we were greeted by Xavier, the manager of the property who toured us around on the Lodge’s grounds and showed us where to find what. When we arrived at the Restaurant we started to hear the gushing water. When we stepped out onto the sundeck we took in a scenery that is very hard to match.

beautiful Five Sisters Falls

beautiful Five Sisters Falls

To our left, we saw pine forest mountains. Looking to the right, we saw the broad leaf folliage of the jungle and down below us were the waterfalls that gave the eco-friendly lodge it’s name: Five Sisters, due to it being five waterstreams falling down over the rocks.

The Lodge features cabanas and a river villa and the guests can choose between “mountain view” or “waterfall view”. Our sweet little cabana had the name “Roaring Creek”, and rightly so i would say. From it’s patio we had a great view down to the waterfalls, as well as the surrounding pine forest.

Soon after settling in it was time to have dinner and our waiter Dan greeted us with a perfectly set, beautifully decorated and candle lit table on the separate deck outside next to the restaurant. Since this is a very silent and remote location i decided to spend the rest of the evening enjoying the quiet and reading for a bit but soon enough the constant calming sound of the waterfall had lulled me to sleep.

The next morning started with a hearty belizean breakfast of scrambled eggs with tomatoes, refried beans and fry jacks, some fruits and goooooood belizean grown coffee served outside on the deck again. Temperatures were still moderate so we decided after breakfast it is time to walk down the 300 steps to the falls.

sitting at Five Sisters Falls

sitting at Five Sisters Falls

And it was well worth it. The Lodge has a lil area set up by the waterfalls were you can lounge in a hammock and listen to the streaming falls, the birds calling in the trees and the occassional woodpecker. The lady who cooked our breakfast told us that there is a jaguar who comes down to where the private villa is by the river but we were not lucky enough to spot it there.

After i had made Patrick walk up the 300 steps with me back to the restaurant i changed my mind and we walked back down half way to go on the nature trail which leads around Five Sisters Lodge through the jungle. You start out amidst pine trees and the trail leads you alongside the stream that forms Five Sister Falls and as it continues you can see the vegetation change to broad leaf jungle with all the Mayan medicinal plants marked alongside the way.

As i was about to give up on ever seeing a jaguar in the wild it crossed our path! Just like that. It was a good distance away and i didn’t dare to move in order not to scare it away which is why i couldn’t get a picture of it. The jaguar did take notice of us, looked our way and then continued his way back into the jungle. It was one of the most magical moments.

yummy bugs! lizard and his breakfast at Five Sisters Lodge

yummy bugs! lizard and his breakfast at Five Sisters Lodge

As we continued the trail we spotted several other animals including the Lodge’s local coatimundi “Buddy” and a few spinytail lizards catching grashoppers (huge grasshoppers!). After the 45 minute walk we were soaked in sweat but happy when we arrived back at the entrance area to Five Sister’s Lodge.

My HOT tip, when you walk the nature trail and come to the stream, cross over and keep walking until you reach the secluded waterfall. It is called “Skinny Dipping Falls”, wanna guess why? :)

One piece of advice: DO NOT forget to come “armed” with bugspray. We were moskito food despite bugspray but it makes it a lil more bearable. Also, the sandflies were out in the afternoon and you might be more comfortable wearing longsleeves and pants. Nevertheless, the trip to Five Sisters Falls was one of a kind and if you are in Belize it is a MUST SEE!

Life with a Belizean Family

September 4th, 2009

The last 4 days i decided to give beach life on the island Caye Caulker a break and went to Cayo district in Western Belize. The trip on the bus was easy as could be and buses travel frequently in either direction. You pay 5BZE (2.5USD) for the bus ride and it takes you about 2 hrs to get from Belize City to San Ignacio.

This time we (my friend Patrick and i)  stopped about halfway between Belmopan and San Ignacio in Ontario Village to visit his family and spend some time with them. I knew before that Belizeans in general are very friendly people but i had not anticipated what i experienced the next four days.

When we got off the bus in front of the house (yes, you can get off anywhere, just holler and tell the driver to stop) we were greeted by three of Patrick’s cousins, his aunt and uncle. Joe and Marjorie Middleton greeted me like an old friend with big hugs and hellos although i had never met them before.

My first tries at making fresh tortillas

My first tries at making fresh tortillas

We spent the rest of the day meeting many cousins, aunts and uncles and got the impression this family must consist of about 100 people and that is only the maternal side. In the evening aunt Marjorie taught me how to make tortillas on a comal and we enjoyed a tasty dinner of chicken, home made flour tortillas and avocado.

Afterwards i settled into a comfortable bed in the nice little house and was soon after in a deep deep sleep.

The next day Patrick and i set out to go to San Ignacio. On the way we stopped to visit his Mom and Stepfather. It was very nice but brief since we had a lot on our agenda still. We had our mind set to go to Five Sister Falls and spend the night at Five Sisters Lodge (this trip i will feature in a separate blog post).

We spend the third day in San Ignacio itself and went to see Patrick’s 97 yearold grandmother! This old lady was amazing! Although she said age is finally getting the best of her and she doesn’t hear and see

Patrick's 97 yo grandmother and i

Patrick's 97 yo grandmother and i

good anymore she was sitting on the porch pointing out birds in the trees to me and i had to smirk about that! It was a lovely time visiting with her and hearing her tell about how Cayo and San Ignacio have changed so much over the last few years.

At the end of the day we went back to Ontario Village and prepared dinner with aunt Marjorie, her 4 children, her husband and 2 grandchildren. I am still flabbergasted how such a small house can fit 10 people without feeling overly full. There was so much love and warmth in this home and i have NEVER in my life felt so welcome as a stranger ever before. It was instantly like i belonged to the family.

Of course the goodbyes in the morning were not easy. Especially the boys (age 8-10) had a lot of fun goofing around with Patrick, playing soccer with me and dancing funny dances to all kinds of music. I was impressed when 9yo Ivan showed me how to dance Punta!

But afterall our time in Cayo was coming to an end. We hugged everybody goodbye in the morning and stepped out to the roadside. We flagged down a bus going towards Belmopan/Belize City and started making our way back to Caye Caulker.

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