Posts Tagged ‘island’

Tropical Storms in Belize

October 23rd, 2010

I had my third visit to the island of Caye Caulker in September 2010. My friend John and I decided we wanted a 10 day getaway to sail, snorkel, fish and tan.a nice day at the Lazy LizardSeptember is towards the tail end of Hurricane Season but we didn’t mind. I had been on the island the year prior and everything was great. Great weather, great sunshine, great fishing. Despite it being Rainy Season and Hurricane Season, in 2009 i only saw a few rain showers in the mornings and during the days it usually cleared up and ended up being gorgeous. We figured it would be pretty much the same in 2010.

We were right for the most part. We arrived on Caye Caulker on September 17th, 2010 in the evening and enjoyed a nice boat ride. A note on the side, yes you CAN make the 4:30pm boat to Caye Caulker when coming in at around 3:30 pm at the airport. I had never done it before myself but i was surprised at how fast and easy we made it out of the airport and into a cab. The ride to the water taxi was about 15minutes so we had plenty of time.

While on the island I took the opportunity to take John on the 3 day sailing trip with Raggamuffin Tours down to Placencia. I have done this trip 2 times prior and know how beautiful the small Cayes are and I wanted for him to be able to experience the beauty of it and the chance to see some of the more remote parts of offshore Belize.

It was when we reached Placencia and went to dinner at Wendy’s that the news grabbed my attention and CNN was talking about two tropical storms, possibly hurricanes moving toward Mexico and the Central American countries. I looked at the TV screen in fascination and thought to myself: “What are they talking about?” as I looked outside the window and took in blue skies and a few scattered white clouds in the sky. The crew from Raggamuffin Tours didn’t seem too worried and i asked my friend Rafael about it.

Catch of the day

Fishing Competition

He told to be careful dismissing the weather all too soon. Weather tends to move a lot quicker over the Atlantic and in the Central Americas than anywhere in Europe. The announcement that two storm systems were headed our way was to be taken serious, despite blue skies and scattered clouds at the moment. He rushed us to take our food with us on the boat so we could make pace and get back to Caye Caulker. We had a full night of sailing ahead of us and two storms chasing behind us.

The night on the Ocean was rough but nothing too bad and i reeled in 3 big barracudas in the morning hours before we made it back to Caye Caulker. Rafael took the boat straight to the backside lagoon to moor it and we were greeted by a small boat coming to ferry us to the island itself. By then, the sky was grey and the wind had picked up considerably. Walking the streets of the island there was a buzz and hum of activity i had rarely seen on this laid back island. Everybody was out and about, getting supplies, boarding up windows or simply heading to the bakery for some fresh bread. Most of the houses on Front Street had been boarded up already and we walked down to our hotel wondering if we should even stay on the island since everyone seemed to be getting ready for a big storm.

Talking to some of the locals we gathered that there was a Tropical Storm called Matthew heading toward Belize and everyone is indeed preparing for the worst and protecting their assets as conditions may worsen into a Hurricane after all. We decided to stay on the island nevertheless and moved back into our room in Tropical Paradise Hotel, a decision we regretted the next morning as all boats were suspended for the day and we had wanted to go out to Cayo to visit friends.

As the day progressed, so did the storm and heavy rain and wind was pelting the island. The tide actually came up quite a bit and water and debris was washing up on front street. Further out on the Ocean there were high waves crashing on the reef. We stayed in our room most of the day but once the rain ceased decided to walk the island and find out how much impact the 40mph wind and rain had really done.

We walked the backside of South Caye Caulker, which is referred to as The Swamp by the locals. Now we know why. There was water standing in the sand paths and not just from this recent storm. The water that was there smelled brackish and there were quite some mosquitoes around using it as their breeding grounds. While jungle boy John was unimpressed, i was mosquito food and got eaten up pretty good.

Front Street

Front Street on Caye Caulker after storm Matthew blew through

We walked over to the Airstrip and walked by Ocean Academy and the more remote houses in this part of Caye Caulker but didn’t notice a lot of storm damage other than palm leaves that had come off the trees and puddles in the sand roads. When we got back to Front Street we decided to check on Lazy Lizard and the split as well.

Walking down Front Street was a puddle jumping exercise as there was a lot of rain water, ocean water and sea-grass which had been washed ashore to navigate through.  At the split there were about 20 small kids playing in the waves that crashed into the old barrier. There was a laughter and screeching and for them it was just a very good time. It definitely took away the somberness and sincerity all those boarded up windows and flooded streets had left me with.

The split itself was littered with whatever the water brought to shore. Once again, I realized not everybody tried to be gentle with the Ocean. People disposed of their waste in it and frequently so. I am not sure where the debris was from that had been washed to shore here but there was a wide array of plastic bottles from shower gels, sun lotions and drinks, to hair spray cans to discarded flip flops to food wrappings all of that mixed into dead sea-grass and sandy foam.

Please remember: Be gentle with our Oceans! DO NOT LITTER :) thank you. If we all follow this, we will be able to provide our kids with the opportunity to still be able to swim with Manatees, see the sharks and beautiful corral and teach their kids how to preserve all this! If we do not, the Oceans and it’s inhabitants will die and this will permanently damage our ecosystems.

Overall we had a great time riding out the storm. Be warned though! The weather in Belize DOES change quickly and a friendly warning by a local should not be dismissed. Watch the weather and the news and decide for yourself if you want to ride it out or not. Don’t rely on your hotel to give you accurate information as some places will only care about keeping their customers. Do some research yourself and apply simple safety logic.

Ocean Academy

April 29th, 2010

When visiting Caye Caulker last year I spent a significant amount of time at the local Internet Café updating this blog right from the source. While sitting there with my orange juice typing away I noticed a woman coming in several times for copies and one time she sat down at the computer next to me looking up something on the Internet. Of course it is all about granting each other privacy at the Internet Café but I couldn’t resist to sneak a peak at the site she was looking at. Caye Caulker Ocean Academy – A non profit Highschool it read.

The Ocean Academy schoolbuilding

I introduced myself and told her I maintain a blog about Belize and my travels and asked her if I could feature her and the school in my blog. She was delighted.

Ocean Academy is the only Highschool in Caye Caulker. The idea was born in February 2008 and put into action after a HUGE public response within 7 months. It moved from being an idea, to a concept to a dream come true within this short a time and residents were very happy about the good news of a local Highschool.

Before Ocean Academy was founded kids had to travel to Belize City on a daily basis, stay with relatives on the mainland or be boarded in Belize City in order to go to Highschool. If all of these options didn’t work for them, they would just drop out and not go to school anymore. Another reason Highschool and education is unattainable for many children in Belize is the costs of it. Tuition, books and meals are expensive and most Belizean families cannot afford to send their child, much less more than one, to school past Elementary Grades. So it was clear that there is a great desire and need for a Highschool in Caye Caulker.

In a developing, young country such as Belize it is essential to be competitive for the job market in order to be employable by companies. Companies prefer to employ locals but with the shift from fishery to industrialization there aren’t enough qualified individuals to fill those openings. The other big source of income in Belize is tourism. But even for the tourism industry growing in Belize someone has to have major knowledge and job skills only gained past Elementary school.

Ocean Academy is a non-profit Highschool, meaning it sustains itself on grants, sponsorships and donations along with voluteer work. The vision of the two co-founders is to provide education to any child wanting to learn, no matter what social status, income of parents or grade. In order to follow this creed the Ocean Academy has to rely on donations a lot, be it money or teaching materials. Some of the teachers work for no pay at all just because they support the vision and Ocean Academy could NOT afford paying salaries at this time.

Future Student of Ocean Academy

Textbooks and Materials have been donated by Canadian and American schools, churches and individuals while time, transportation, food and equipment for some classes were provided by the local businesses. Apart from the regular school work like Math, Computer Skills, Physical Education, English and Social Studies, Ocean Academy is working with the local businesses to provide the opportunity to gain “on the job skills” for it’s students through an Apprenticeship Program. The students volunteer in local businesses gaining experiences in wedding photography, marine biology, business letter correspondance, online hotel booking, customer service skills, masonry, construction and sales and inventory.

I was very impressed with how much good these women have done over that short a time and applaud Joni Miller and Heidi Curry, the two co-founders of Ocean Academy. This year as they expect a rise in enrollment numbers they are planning to expand the school building in order to accommodate all the new students. Any of you who would like to read up on what is going on with Ocaean Academy, would like to donate school supplies or tuition money or have any questions concerning Ocean Academy, check out: www.cayecaulkerschool.com

Remember, education is a valuable good! And not everyone is priviledged enough to be able to afford it!

Caye Caulker

August 5th, 2009

One of my favorite places in Belize are the islands along the coast, called Cayes. The two most northern Cayes are Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. While Ambergris Caye is bigger and more touristy, Caye Caulker still has the small-town charme and is more attractive to backpackers as their prices are still moderate and there are many simple accommodations there.

Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Don’t get me wrong, of course you can live splendidly on Caye Caulker as well. You can rent a house or a condo with AC and all kinds of extras. But most ppl on the island don’t. Especially not the budget travelers!

Caye Caulker is a charming place to spend some time and unwind. The island is the epitome of the motto “No shoes, no shirt…no problem”. Nothing seems to be a problem on this lil patch of paradise, where dogs nap in the sandy roads and tanned cyclists pedal around them. In fact, you may not once see a car on the island. There are very few and the only thing that comes close to it in transportation is the golf carts.Those are very fun though.

The general directive on Caye Caulker is “Go slow” and you will realize after a couple of days that you lose the fast stride and begin to immerse yourself into the island life. You, too, will start to “go slow” and enjoy it!

With roughly 1000 residents on the island the main two sources of income are tourism and fishery. There is an abundance of tour providers on the island to chose from. My advise would be to look around and talk to other travelers. Maybe they already went with someone and can point you where you need to go. If not, the other reason to look around for a bit would be comparing prices (which are pretty much the same whereever you go) and in the end, picking a tour provider that YOU feel comfortable with. Personally i love the company Raggamuffin Tours! Great people, great sailing and absolutely safe and reliable! All their tours were tons of fun!

isn't this paradise?

isn't this paradise?

No matter which tour provider you decide on, make sure you do not miss out on the vast opportunities for snorkeling, diving, fishing, sailing, kayaking, surfing and animal watching. It is a one of a kind spot to do so with the 2nd largest reef in the Western Hemisphere right at your doorstep!

The island is an ideal base for trips to The Blue Hole and the more remote locations along the reef such as Tobacco Caye, Rendevouz Caye or Halfmoon Caye (just to name a few). It is easiest done by going with a boat of divers. I chose Frenchie’s Dive Shop to do the tour to The Blue Hole and it was a lot of fun. We did three snorkel stops and even got to see Reef Sharks!

For all of you that are not into the watersports, don’t despair! Caye Caulker has plenty to offer for you, too. At the northern end of Caye Caulker there is the “split”, a waterway separating the North island from the main Caye Caulker south island. It is a good spot to swim or snorkel of the beach, as well as get a couple of drinks at the “Lazy Lizard”. The split was created by Hurricane Hattie in 1961 and the broken wall laying in the water is a perfect spot to put your towel down and soak up the sunshine.

the north end of the southern island of Caye Caulker, called The Split

the north end of the southern island of Caye Caulker, called The Split

Other than that you can lay in a hammock all day, enjoy the breeze and plenty of great food. There is no way anyone would not be able to find a place to eat. From Italian, to Belizean, to Chinese, to Mexican to fast-food-type stuff. It is all here. My tip would be to try the lil comidas on front street. Fran’s Grill was one of my favorites. She has a delicious lobster menue. Also i heard a lot of good about Rosa’s Café on Dock Street, it was recommended to me and i will be sure to check it out when i am back to the island in roughly 3 weeks.

When it comes to accommodations they are as abundant as places to eat and you will hardly not find a place to hang your hat at night. It all depends what you are looking for. With backpackers most popular is Tina’s which you practically almost stumble into when you get off the water taxi.

In any case, take my advice here! DO NOT stay at Mara’s Place next to the split! We did for two nights and encountered bed bugs. If you don’t mind them, go right ahead but i could have done without the experience.

Look around until you see a place you like, then just walk in and ask. Belizean in general and people on Caye Caulker especially are very friendly. Even if that particular place does not have rooms available they will sure know about somewhere else you may wanna check.

As you can tell, Caye Caulker quickly became a second home for me and i miss being on the island. The vibe and laidback attitude is why i love it so much. The locals are friendly and helpful and there has never been a “bad day” to be had on Caye Caulker. If you have specific questions about places to stay or eat at, or anything else concerning “Caulker”, please drop me a comment and i will get back to you as soon as i can!

“Go slow” and enjoy! I left my heart on Caye Caulker and i am sure so will you very soon!

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