Posts Tagged ‘ocean’

Tropical Storms in Belize

October 23rd, 2010

I had my third visit to the island of Caye Caulker in September 2010. My friend John and I decided we wanted a 10 day getaway to sail, snorkel, fish and tan.a nice day at the Lazy LizardSeptember is towards the tail end of Hurricane Season but we didn’t mind. I had been on the island the year prior and everything was great. Great weather, great sunshine, great fishing. Despite it being Rainy Season and Hurricane Season, in 2009 i only saw a few rain showers in the mornings and during the days it usually cleared up and ended up being gorgeous. We figured it would be pretty much the same in 2010.

We were right for the most part. We arrived on Caye Caulker on September 17th, 2010 in the evening and enjoyed a nice boat ride. A note on the side, yes you CAN make the 4:30pm boat to Caye Caulker when coming in at around 3:30 pm at the airport. I had never done it before myself but i was surprised at how fast and easy we made it out of the airport and into a cab. The ride to the water taxi was about 15minutes so we had plenty of time.

While on the island I took the opportunity to take John on the 3 day sailing trip with Raggamuffin Tours down to Placencia. I have done this trip 2 times prior and know how beautiful the small Cayes are and I wanted for him to be able to experience the beauty of it and the chance to see some of the more remote parts of offshore Belize.

It was when we reached Placencia and went to dinner at Wendy’s that the news grabbed my attention and CNN was talking about two tropical storms, possibly hurricanes moving toward Mexico and the Central American countries. I looked at the TV screen in fascination and thought to myself: “What are they talking about?” as I looked outside the window and took in blue skies and a few scattered white clouds in the sky. The crew from Raggamuffin Tours didn’t seem too worried and i asked my friend Rafael about it.

Catch of the day

Fishing Competition

He told to be careful dismissing the weather all too soon. Weather tends to move a lot quicker over the Atlantic and in the Central Americas than anywhere in Europe. The announcement that two storm systems were headed our way was to be taken serious, despite blue skies and scattered clouds at the moment. He rushed us to take our food with us on the boat so we could make pace and get back to Caye Caulker. We had a full night of sailing ahead of us and two storms chasing behind us.

The night on the Ocean was rough but nothing too bad and i reeled in 3 big barracudas in the morning hours before we made it back to Caye Caulker. Rafael took the boat straight to the backside lagoon to moor it and we were greeted by a small boat coming to ferry us to the island itself. By then, the sky was grey and the wind had picked up considerably. Walking the streets of the island there was a buzz and hum of activity i had rarely seen on this laid back island. Everybody was out and about, getting supplies, boarding up windows or simply heading to the bakery for some fresh bread. Most of the houses on Front Street had been boarded up already and we walked down to our hotel wondering if we should even stay on the island since everyone seemed to be getting ready for a big storm.

Talking to some of the locals we gathered that there was a Tropical Storm called Matthew heading toward Belize and everyone is indeed preparing for the worst and protecting their assets as conditions may worsen into a Hurricane after all. We decided to stay on the island nevertheless and moved back into our room in Tropical Paradise Hotel, a decision we regretted the next morning as all boats were suspended for the day and we had wanted to go out to Cayo to visit friends.

As the day progressed, so did the storm and heavy rain and wind was pelting the island. The tide actually came up quite a bit and water and debris was washing up on front street. Further out on the Ocean there were high waves crashing on the reef. We stayed in our room most of the day but once the rain ceased decided to walk the island and find out how much impact the 40mph wind and rain had really done.

We walked the backside of South Caye Caulker, which is referred to as The Swamp by the locals. Now we know why. There was water standing in the sand paths and not just from this recent storm. The water that was there smelled brackish and there were quite some mosquitoes around using it as their breeding grounds. While jungle boy John was unimpressed, i was mosquito food and got eaten up pretty good.

Front Street

Front Street on Caye Caulker after storm Matthew blew through

We walked over to the Airstrip and walked by Ocean Academy and the more remote houses in this part of Caye Caulker but didn’t notice a lot of storm damage other than palm leaves that had come off the trees and puddles in the sand roads. When we got back to Front Street we decided to check on Lazy Lizard and the split as well.

Walking down Front Street was a puddle jumping exercise as there was a lot of rain water, ocean water and sea-grass which had been washed ashore to navigate through.  At the split there were about 20 small kids playing in the waves that crashed into the old barrier. There was a laughter and screeching and for them it was just a very good time. It definitely took away the somberness and sincerity all those boarded up windows and flooded streets had left me with.

The split itself was littered with whatever the water brought to shore. Once again, I realized not everybody tried to be gentle with the Ocean. People disposed of their waste in it and frequently so. I am not sure where the debris was from that had been washed to shore here but there was a wide array of plastic bottles from shower gels, sun lotions and drinks, to hair spray cans to discarded flip flops to food wrappings all of that mixed into dead sea-grass and sandy foam.

Please remember: Be gentle with our Oceans! DO NOT LITTER :) thank you. If we all follow this, we will be able to provide our kids with the opportunity to still be able to swim with Manatees, see the sharks and beautiful corral and teach their kids how to preserve all this! If we do not, the Oceans and it’s inhabitants will die and this will permanently damage our ecosystems.

Overall we had a great time riding out the storm. Be warned though! The weather in Belize DOES change quickly and a friendly warning by a local should not be dismissed. Watch the weather and the news and decide for yourself if you want to ride it out or not. Don’t rely on your hotel to give you accurate information as some places will only care about keeping their customers. Do some research yourself and apply simple safety logic.

Lighthouse Reef

September 10th, 2009

When visiting Belize and looking for new spots to see and snorkel three of my local Caye Caulker friends made it happen for me this time by taking me to Lighthouse Reef. Rafael, Fiona, Patrick and i spent 4 amazing days out on Northern Caye on Lighthouse Reef and snorkeled to our hearts’ content.

Small Caye with the Lighthouse after which the Reef was named.

Small Caye with the Lighthouse after which the Reef was named.

This trip was all about back to the roots for me. We only packed bare necesseties when it comes to food, since we wanted to do as much speerfishing, flyfishing and trolling as possible. Other than that, the most valuable item was my bikini!

When we arrived at Lighthouse Reef the island’s caretaker greeted us happily and invited us to stay in the room’s that had formerly been Staff Quarters. Simple but clean and the bathrooms right next to it. We were delighted at so much comfort as we had anticipated camping out and sleeping under the stars. Mr.Jones, the caretaker, soon quenched that thirst for “outdoor sleeping” when he let us know there are crocodiles on the island as well as gazillion of mosquitoes!!!

As soon as the boat was unloaded we set out to go speerfishing, a little bit of a contest between the two pairs Rafael and Fiona and Patrick and i. We caught two hogfish each and a yellowjack. Shortly before sunset we started cooking and soon after lit a huge bonfire on the beach to chase away the mosquitoes.

We started the next day with an early breakfast and then explored the island for a bit. When talking to Mr. Jones i found out that the resort has been closed and for sale for 4 years now. It has an airstrip where people used to fly in directly to Northern Caye. There are three big houses that sleep up to 6 people, while the 5 smaller cabanas sleep up to 4 people. I was amazed how someone could close a beautiful resort like this one. Everything looked as if someone just hit “pause” not like having been closed for years.

two Juvenile Queen Angelfish i was able to find at the dock on Lighthouse Reef.

two Juvenile Queen Angelfish i was able to find at the dock on Lighthouse Reef.

As i mentioned before, it is my lil paradise found. The island is surrounded by corral reef which enables you to snorkel right off the beach, the ocean is inviting you to dip in for a swim at any time and the water is home to as many game fish as well as reef fish.

I found out that the dock at the former restaurant has another function now: it is the island’s nursery for reef fish babies of all sorts. I saw juvenile Angel Fish, juvenile Rock Beauty, Seargent Majors, Black Snappers, grunts, Dogteeth, Butterfly Fish and Lobsters as well as the occassional baby Stingray very close to shore.

Later this day we took the boat over to Small Caye (the island where the actual lighthouse is) and spent the afternoon sunbathing, relaxing, playing around in the shallow waters on the shore and of course, fishing.

Rafael holding his catch, a tarpon, before releasing it back into the ocean.

Rafael holding his catch, a tarpon, before releasing it back into the ocean.

Rafael was able to catch a tarpon. These fish are protected in Belize and fishing for them is catch and release only. It took him a good hour to get the huge fish in and we could not resist to pose for a picture with the gorgeous animal.

We then went for a bit of snorkeling and speerfishing since our dinner was not caught yet and we were all getting a wee bit hungry. Snacking on coconuts all day may sound great but it is not going to fill one’s stomach for long. The day ended with Hogfish for dinner and a great bonfire (mainly to chase the mosquitoes away).

Before i tell you that on the last day we did exactly what we had done the prior days, i would like to point out how much wildlife there was on these remote Cayes. We actually saw a blue heron, a greenback heron, pelicans, crabs, lizards, turtles, crocodiles, nursesharks, stingrays, eaglerays and many many colorful reef fish!

For all of you who would like to experience something like this trip to Lighthouse Reef i would advise to talk to Rafael from Raggamuffin Tours and he may be able to hook you up with what you want. But beware, the trip is expensive as gas prices have skyrocketed and you will need to bring pretty mcuh everything to the island, from ice for the coolers to bugspray for yourself. Other than that is a great trip to relax, snorkel, speerfish and enjoy island life for a few days.

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