Posts Tagged ‘sailing’

Tropical Storms in Belize

October 23rd, 2010

I had my third visit to the island of Caye Caulker in September 2010. My friend John and I decided we wanted a 10 day getaway to sail, snorkel, fish and tan.a nice day at the Lazy LizardSeptember is towards the tail end of Hurricane Season but we didn’t mind. I had been on the island the year prior and everything was great. Great weather, great sunshine, great fishing. Despite it being Rainy Season and Hurricane Season, in 2009 i only saw a few rain showers in the mornings and during the days it usually cleared up and ended up being gorgeous. We figured it would be pretty much the same in 2010.

We were right for the most part. We arrived on Caye Caulker on September 17th, 2010 in the evening and enjoyed a nice boat ride. A note on the side, yes you CAN make the 4:30pm boat to Caye Caulker when coming in at around 3:30 pm at the airport. I had never done it before myself but i was surprised at how fast and easy we made it out of the airport and into a cab. The ride to the water taxi was about 15minutes so we had plenty of time.

While on the island I took the opportunity to take John on the 3 day sailing trip with Raggamuffin Tours down to Placencia. I have done this trip 2 times prior and know how beautiful the small Cayes are and I wanted for him to be able to experience the beauty of it and the chance to see some of the more remote parts of offshore Belize.

It was when we reached Placencia and went to dinner at Wendy’s that the news grabbed my attention and CNN was talking about two tropical storms, possibly hurricanes moving toward Mexico and the Central American countries. I looked at the TV screen in fascination and thought to myself: “What are they talking about?” as I looked outside the window and took in blue skies and a few scattered white clouds in the sky. The crew from Raggamuffin Tours didn’t seem too worried and i asked my friend Rafael about it.

Catch of the day

Fishing Competition

He told to be careful dismissing the weather all too soon. Weather tends to move a lot quicker over the Atlantic and in the Central Americas than anywhere in Europe. The announcement that two storm systems were headed our way was to be taken serious, despite blue skies and scattered clouds at the moment. He rushed us to take our food with us on the boat so we could make pace and get back to Caye Caulker. We had a full night of sailing ahead of us and two storms chasing behind us.

The night on the Ocean was rough but nothing too bad and i reeled in 3 big barracudas in the morning hours before we made it back to Caye Caulker. Rafael took the boat straight to the backside lagoon to moor it and we were greeted by a small boat coming to ferry us to the island itself. By then, the sky was grey and the wind had picked up considerably. Walking the streets of the island there was a buzz and hum of activity i had rarely seen on this laid back island. Everybody was out and about, getting supplies, boarding up windows or simply heading to the bakery for some fresh bread. Most of the houses on Front Street had been boarded up already and we walked down to our hotel wondering if we should even stay on the island since everyone seemed to be getting ready for a big storm.

Talking to some of the locals we gathered that there was a Tropical Storm called Matthew heading toward Belize and everyone is indeed preparing for the worst and protecting their assets as conditions may worsen into a Hurricane after all. We decided to stay on the island nevertheless and moved back into our room in Tropical Paradise Hotel, a decision we regretted the next morning as all boats were suspended for the day and we had wanted to go out to Cayo to visit friends.

As the day progressed, so did the storm and heavy rain and wind was pelting the island. The tide actually came up quite a bit and water and debris was washing up on front street. Further out on the Ocean there were high waves crashing on the reef. We stayed in our room most of the day but once the rain ceased decided to walk the island and find out how much impact the 40mph wind and rain had really done.

We walked the backside of South Caye Caulker, which is referred to as The Swamp by the locals. Now we know why. There was water standing in the sand paths and not just from this recent storm. The water that was there smelled brackish and there were quite some mosquitoes around using it as their breeding grounds. While jungle boy John was unimpressed, i was mosquito food and got eaten up pretty good.

Front Street

Front Street on Caye Caulker after storm Matthew blew through

We walked over to the Airstrip and walked by Ocean Academy and the more remote houses in this part of Caye Caulker but didn’t notice a lot of storm damage other than palm leaves that had come off the trees and puddles in the sand roads. When we got back to Front Street we decided to check on Lazy Lizard and the split as well.

Walking down Front Street was a puddle jumping exercise as there was a lot of rain water, ocean water and sea-grass which had been washed ashore to navigate through.  At the split there were about 20 small kids playing in the waves that crashed into the old barrier. There was a laughter and screeching and for them it was just a very good time. It definitely took away the somberness and sincerity all those boarded up windows and flooded streets had left me with.

The split itself was littered with whatever the water brought to shore. Once again, I realized not everybody tried to be gentle with the Ocean. People disposed of their waste in it and frequently so. I am not sure where the debris was from that had been washed to shore here but there was a wide array of plastic bottles from shower gels, sun lotions and drinks, to hair spray cans to discarded flip flops to food wrappings all of that mixed into dead sea-grass and sandy foam.

Please remember: Be gentle with our Oceans! DO NOT LITTER :) thank you. If we all follow this, we will be able to provide our kids with the opportunity to still be able to swim with Manatees, see the sharks and beautiful corral and teach their kids how to preserve all this! If we do not, the Oceans and it’s inhabitants will die and this will permanently damage our ecosystems.

Overall we had a great time riding out the storm. Be warned though! The weather in Belize DOES change quickly and a friendly warning by a local should not be dismissed. Watch the weather and the news and decide for yourself if you want to ride it out or not. Don’t rely on your hotel to give you accurate information as some places will only care about keeping their customers. Do some research yourself and apply simple safety logic.

Caye Caulker

August 5th, 2009

One of my favorite places in Belize are the islands along the coast, called Cayes. The two most northern Cayes are Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. While Ambergris Caye is bigger and more touristy, Caye Caulker still has the small-town charme and is more attractive to backpackers as their prices are still moderate and there are many simple accommodations there.

Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Don’t get me wrong, of course you can live splendidly on Caye Caulker as well. You can rent a house or a condo with AC and all kinds of extras. But most ppl on the island don’t. Especially not the budget travelers!

Caye Caulker is a charming place to spend some time and unwind. The island is the epitome of the motto “No shoes, no shirt…no problem”. Nothing seems to be a problem on this lil patch of paradise, where dogs nap in the sandy roads and tanned cyclists pedal around them. In fact, you may not once see a car on the island. There are very few and the only thing that comes close to it in transportation is the golf carts.Those are very fun though.

The general directive on Caye Caulker is “Go slow” and you will realize after a couple of days that you lose the fast stride and begin to immerse yourself into the island life. You, too, will start to “go slow” and enjoy it!

With roughly 1000 residents on the island the main two sources of income are tourism and fishery. There is an abundance of tour providers on the island to chose from. My advise would be to look around and talk to other travelers. Maybe they already went with someone and can point you where you need to go. If not, the other reason to look around for a bit would be comparing prices (which are pretty much the same whereever you go) and in the end, picking a tour provider that YOU feel comfortable with. Personally i love the company Raggamuffin Tours! Great people, great sailing and absolutely safe and reliable! All their tours were tons of fun!

isn't this paradise?

isn't this paradise?

No matter which tour provider you decide on, make sure you do not miss out on the vast opportunities for snorkeling, diving, fishing, sailing, kayaking, surfing and animal watching. It is a one of a kind spot to do so with the 2nd largest reef in the Western Hemisphere right at your doorstep!

The island is an ideal base for trips to The Blue Hole and the more remote locations along the reef such as Tobacco Caye, Rendevouz Caye or Halfmoon Caye (just to name a few). It is easiest done by going with a boat of divers. I chose Frenchie’s Dive Shop to do the tour to The Blue Hole and it was a lot of fun. We did three snorkel stops and even got to see Reef Sharks!

For all of you that are not into the watersports, don’t despair! Caye Caulker has plenty to offer for you, too. At the northern end of Caye Caulker there is the “split”, a waterway separating the North island from the main Caye Caulker south island. It is a good spot to swim or snorkel of the beach, as well as get a couple of drinks at the “Lazy Lizard”. The split was created by Hurricane Hattie in 1961 and the broken wall laying in the water is a perfect spot to put your towel down and soak up the sunshine.

the north end of the southern island of Caye Caulker, called The Split

the north end of the southern island of Caye Caulker, called The Split

Other than that you can lay in a hammock all day, enjoy the breeze and plenty of great food. There is no way anyone would not be able to find a place to eat. From Italian, to Belizean, to Chinese, to Mexican to fast-food-type stuff. It is all here. My tip would be to try the lil comidas on front street. Fran’s Grill was one of my favorites. She has a delicious lobster menue. Also i heard a lot of good about Rosa’s Café on Dock Street, it was recommended to me and i will be sure to check it out when i am back to the island in roughly 3 weeks.

When it comes to accommodations they are as abundant as places to eat and you will hardly not find a place to hang your hat at night. It all depends what you are looking for. With backpackers most popular is Tina’s which you practically almost stumble into when you get off the water taxi.

In any case, take my advice here! DO NOT stay at Mara’s Place next to the split! We did for two nights and encountered bed bugs. If you don’t mind them, go right ahead but i could have done without the experience.

Look around until you see a place you like, then just walk in and ask. Belizean in general and people on Caye Caulker especially are very friendly. Even if that particular place does not have rooms available they will sure know about somewhere else you may wanna check.

As you can tell, Caye Caulker quickly became a second home for me and i miss being on the island. The vibe and laidback attitude is why i love it so much. The locals are friendly and helpful and there has never been a “bad day” to be had on Caye Caulker. If you have specific questions about places to stay or eat at, or anything else concerning “Caulker”, please drop me a comment and i will get back to you as soon as i can!

“Go slow” and enjoy! I left my heart on Caye Caulker and i am sure so will you very soon!

Belize trip June 2009 part 1

August 2nd, 2009

For all of you who think about traveling Central America, make sure you do not miss out on Belize! It is one of a kind and the best of trips i’ve had in quite some time. This time for the first time i had a travel companion, my friend Sabrina.

National Monument of Belize

National Monument of Belize

we (female ages 27 and 29) traveled by ourselves. First and foremost i have to emphasize that throughout the whole trip we both felt extremely safe and comfortable not always a given when females travel alone and especially not in Central America. No safety issues whatsoever!

We started our trip by a flight from Frankfurt, Germany to Cancun. I would advise anyone NOT to fly with Iberia… and i will NEVER again. A couple days before we left they changed the flight plan and made an impromtu stop in Lisboa/Portugal on the way to pick up more passengers. This put our arrival time 3hrs behind what we had planned on.

We arrived in Cancun and made it out of the airport in about 45 mins. The bus to Playa del Carmen had already left and so we had to go to Cancun town before getting on a bus to Tulum. We reached Tulum late at night, grabbed a cab and headed for our hotel. The staff at Cabanas Copal in Tulum was nice enough to wait up for us (til we got there around midnight) and showed us to our cute lil cabana right at the ocean. It was a steal at 30USD a night and we didn’t mind sharing the bathrooms. Everything was well maintained and very clean!
The next three days we toured Tulum ruins, Coba and swam in a cenote. We loved it! The weather was ok, it rained in the mornings for a lil while but in the afternoon we enjoyed our beachtime with sunset and perfect water! Also, Cabanas Copal provided us with free wireless internet access so it was easy checking emails and staying somewhat in touch with our families back home … which they were quite thankful for i think! lol

On the fourth day we hopped on the bus to Chetumal and from there kept going all the way to San Ignacio. Everything was so easy. No problems at the border, no problems when we got to Belize City. Our bus to SI was right there and ready to go The bus ride was good with music and cheap as hell (4US per person from BZE City to SI).
We arrived in SI at 7.30pm and got a room at Hi-Et’s Guesthouse. Clean and simple lodging, the owner is nice and very helpful should you have questions!

We ate a Hannah’s (Ko-ox hannaa) and LOOOOOOVED it! Great food, honestly i could have eaten up and down the menue! We actually ate there every day. We ended our day at a local bar “Faya Wata” and got in touch with other travelers over there.

Next day was spent exploring SI, walking up the hill to Cahal Pech and walking the Maya Medicine Trail and Iguana Project with our guide Eddy. It was awesome and i am glad we did it! Playing with the lizards was very cool!
We also set up our Tikal Tour with MayaWalk Tours.

This is in Tikal, Guatemala

This is in Tikal, Guatemala

The next day we took the tour to Tikal and all was well. The crowd we traveled with (8ppl) was mostly ppl our age and conversations were strung up quickly. MayaWalk took us to the border and picked us up there in the evening again (thanks Jimmy)! The ppl were extremely friendly.

We decided to book transport to Belize City with them the next day since it was 4 of us (two ppl from our tikal trip were on the way to CC as well) and MayaWalk would stop at Belize Zoo on the way for us and wait until we’re done in there and then take us straight to the watertaxi terminal. The Zoo was worth the stop! Awesome animals and we even got to go into the jaguar cage and play with Junior and feed him. great experience.

In the afternoon we took the watertaxi and got to Caye Caulker. Tina’s was booked and we walked down south along the shore to Tropical Paradise Hotel. We decided to stay there. Everything was spotless clean and very nice. The Manager (Terri) was great help as well. We spent one day exploring the island barefoot (sandy roads) and on tuesday departed on the 3day sailing trip with Raggamuffin Tours! THAT was the best decision ever! The trip is so worth it’s money. We were stuffed with the best of food for three days, provided with all the equipment and did three snorkel stops every day. Our international crowd on the boat got along well and we all had a blast! The staff was great and made sure we had the best of times. My friend and i decided to take the same boat back to CC (over night) and i loved the waves, the breeze and sunrise! We came back to CC just in time for Lobster Fest! Lobster Fest weekend was a blast as well. We wandered from party to party til the early mornings!

On sunday we took a trip out to the Blue Hole with Frenchie’s Dive shop! It was great! Snorkeled with reef sharks at the blue hole and saw all kinds of other ocean creatures at Half Moon Caye and Long Caye! Totally worth the money again!
The rest of the week we did trips to Hol Chan, Shark Ray Alley, Corral Garden, St. George’s Caye and the north part of CC. We bbq’ed with local friends (mostly from Raggamuffin) pretty much every day and enjoyed island life!

At the end of the week we left CC and went to Orange Walk to meet up with friends of mine. My friend took us to La Milpa and we stayed at their lovely cabanas for one night. We walked the jungle and went birding early in the morning, drove out to Chan Chich Lodge for a drink and saw plenty of wildlife on the way.
We spent sunday and monday in Orange Walk and did a Lamanai River Tour on monday.. the guide was not the greatest (monotone voice, heavy accent) and i was reminded of the worst of school trips to some museum… but i still enjoyed Lamanai. We saw spider monkeys on the way as well a crocodiles and many birds and the ruins were spectacular. We tried soursap icecream back in Orange Walk and ate at Lamanai River Restaurant (very good but pricey)
Tuesday we left Belize to get back to Mexico. We made our way back to Playa Del Carmen and were “shocked” how touristy it is we were not used to that anymore having been in Belize for quite a while. We spent the last night on Cozumel and had fun walking around town for a bit.
The next morning it rained and we made our way to the airport! It had been a great time (great is actually not even strong enough a word to describe it adequately) in Belize!

One word of advice for others though: DO NOT stay at Mara’s Place on Caye Caulker (next to the split). We did for one night and encountered bed bugs! She promised the next day we could move to a diff room but then left us a note that she had no other room and sorry for the inconvenience. We had to argue around with her for about 30mins until she refunded our money and let us move out. We then had to wash all our clothes and bags in order not to track the flees/beg bugs to the next hotel. It worked out for us but i could have done without the experience.

Also, i would advise those who throw a screaming fit over a cockroach in the bathroom not to go to Belize.. those critters tend to show up we named ours… all of them! We had Lola in SI, we had Jimmy at La Milpa and Rose in Orange Walk.

Other than that… we had a blast and i am ready to go back there as soon as i can!

Happy trails!


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